![]() ![]() ![]() I have considered having a private audio specialist take a look, but I am wary of the quality/ non-factory repair possibilities. That means I would pay double to have the pair fixed up. What really interests me is that both speakers are behaving the same exact way (what are the odds). I made contact with CSW customer support and they gave me the $185 deal to send in the amp, and have it repaired. The speakers are fine, and it sounds to me like its the amp, but what specifically about the amp, I do not know. The light on the bottom switches from green to red (indicating on/standby) with the tempo. When they are plugged in and turned on the subs start to make a rhythmic bumping noise. Originally Posted by carsonhobart /t/1213185/cambridge-soundworks-newton-t500-speaker-problem/0_50#post_22754161Īfter going through this entire forum, I thought I might throw in an issue that I have with my T500s. If anyone has any more info about components replaced on the board please PM me or post so I can more easily track down the faulty components. It's not worth me spending 185 + shipping to replace the amp again, so I'll either try to fix or just get by on the one alone. At some point I'd like to open it up and take a loo, and my guess is it is the board that looked the same as the first two that failed. So fast forward a few years and one of them died again (crackling sound). When I got both back I was a bit surprised to find two completely different boards- one was obviously a revision, the other looked the same as the two I had sent in. I don't know if I ever received a paper telling me what they fixed though. So I called them, and for $75 each I had both fixed. I just used the one sub for a while, but eventually that died too. At the time one of the subs wasn't working (hiss/cracking sound from sub). I got a pair of T500's plus surround of CL a few years back. Just replacing burned components doesn't guarantee a successful repair, not if you don't know the cause of the heat.Well I guess I'll share my little story. Heat and age probably caused the color change. Thanks!Discolored adhesive doesn't mean that a capacitor is bad. (Or maybe it won't be very impressive under any circumstances.) If I get another plate amp, any suggestions on whether I should get one with boost or not, what frequency, and so forth? If I knew the T/S parameters for the driver, I could model the response in this cabinet, but I don't have a way to measure those right now.Ħ2632 62634Ħ2635 62633 I'm wondering if the original CS plate amp has a boost circuit, so it may not be very impressive if used with a plate amp without boost. (The existing sub isn't anything that impressive to begin with - it's an 8-inch Dayton Quattro with a modeled F3 of around 33 Hz IIRC). It sounded ok with music and would probably be fine for a music-only sub, but the LFE effects in the movie didn't seem to play as low as with my existing sub. ![]() (Conveniently, the cutout diameter was the same and the screw holes even lined up.) I played some music with it and also sampled a few minutes of Return of the Jedi to try it out. I pulled a Dayton 240-watt plate amp (without boost) out of another sub and put it in this one. Is it likely that they'll just burn out again? Is it worth trying to repair this? I could replace the resistors and capacitor, but I'm wondering if the root cause for the failure is somewhere else in the amp. The LEDs on the amp light when it's plugged in, but it produces no sound. One circuit board on the amp has a burned area around three resistors, and the adhesive around the base of one of the big capacitors is discolored. The plate amp is fried, but the driver is fine. Not high end, but I thought it would be worth seeing what was wrong with it. It's a sealed 10-inch sub with about 1 ft3 of internal volume. When I was at my brother-in-law's house for Christmas, he had a dead subwoofer lying around that I ended up bringing home. ![]()
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